When the first ever Rolex-authorized book on Submariner was announced, many were skeptical. Rolex is known for its secrecy, so why would they suddenly decide to share their archives with the public? However, "Historical Perspectives" by Nicholas Foulkes provides a fascinating look into Rolex's history, correcting previous assumptions and adding to the scholarship surrounding vintage Submariners.
Contrary to previous beliefs, the Submariner did not originate independently but evolved from the ref. 6150 Explorer. Letters between Rolex director René-Paul Jeanneret and the Rolex London office reveal the development process in collaboration with the British Royal Navy divers, resulting in the larger dial diameter and rotating bezel that define the Submariner.
The book sheds light on the process of naming the Submariner, which underwent various iterations before settling on the final name. Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, even suggested the name Nautilus, which was already registered. The book also reveals that internally, the watch was referred to as "Rebikoff," after Dimitri Rebikoff, a pioneering figure in underwater photography and scuba diving who assisted Rolex in its development.
The Turn-O-Graph was launched alongside the Submariner, with both watches featuring a rotating bezel. However, while the Submariner became a commercial success, the Turn-O-Graph faded into obscurity. The book highlights the importance of the rotating bezel in the Submariner's popularity and the strategic decision to focus on it in the marketing of the Turn-O-Graph.
One of the most significant revelations in the book is the inclusion of production estimates for each Rolex Submariner reference. These numbers, sourced from the Rolex Archives, confirm long-held beliefs within the vintage Rolex community. For example, it confirms that approximately 300 ref. 6200 "King Subs" were produced, making it one of the rarest references.
Additionally, the book reveals the disparity in production between the ref. 5512 and ref. 5513. Despite being nearly identical watches, the 5512 is estimated to have a production quantity of 17,338, while the 5513 has a staggering 151,449. This insight sheds light on the market dynamics and collector preferences within the vintage Rolex community.
"Historical Perspectives: Five Things I Learned From The First Ever Rolex-Authorized Submariner Book" provides a valuable resource for Rolex enthusiasts and collectors. Published in partnership with Wallpaper*, the book marks the beginning of a series that will delve into the secrets of various Rolex models.
The book will be available in English and French, with hardcover copies available for purchase starting October 1, 2024. A limited number of silk-bound copies can be pre-ordered exclusively from the WallpaperSTORE* between September 16-19.
