The Rolex Explorer II, also known as the Explorer I, is a rugged timepiece that has undergone several updates since its debut in the 1950s. Originally designed as an exploration watch, the Explorer II has evolved over the years to become a versatile tool watch suitable for any occasion.
The first major update to the Explorer II came in 1971 with the introduction of the ref. 1655. This model featured a fixed 24-hour bezel and an orange 24-hour hand to distinguish between day and night during cave exploration. However, this additional hand could not be set independently from the standard hour hand.
In the early 1970s, Rolex added an offset index on the dial to help users determine the 24-hour numerals on the bezel. The addition of a date window also made the watch more suitable for daily wear.
Despite its nickname, the "Steve McQueen watch," the early Explorer II was not actually worn by the actor. The association between McQueen and the watch was a marketing strategy by Rolex to boost sales.
The Explorer II's design changes continued in the following years, with updates to the dial, hands, and bezel. The case size also increased from 39mm to 42mm, and improvements were made to the movement and lume technology.
The most recent iteration of the Explorer II, the ref. 226570, was introduced in 2021 to celebrate the watch's 50th anniversary. It features a new Chronergy escapement, which improves accuracy and extends the power reserve to over 70 hours.
Collectors can still find vintage models of the Explorer II, with the earliest ref. 1655 being the most sought-after. However, the later ref. 16550 and ref. 16570 models are also highly collectible and offer enhanced features.
For those seeking a modern 42mm Explorer II, the ref. 226570 with the Chronergy escapement is the best choice. However, the ref. 216570 offers a comparable experience at a more affordable price.